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November 13, 2006
Day Thirteen - Clean Nuts
My life just isn't exciting enough to support 30 blog entries in a row, so I'm going into the vaults today. I can't remember if I've told this story here before. I do know that I've told it everywhere else, but so severe is my lack of material, I'm telling it yet again. I considered being really lazy and simply pasting the piece I wrote regarding this story years ago, the one that landed me a long-term gig with a food magazine, but I'm going to take the effort to retell it. Which actually means I'm too lazy to look for the original on my hard drive.
This isn't random, though. A few minutes ago I glanced at the book for my recent-acquired bread machine. There's a recipe on the cover, written in my mom's handwriting, for English toffee, which is where our story begins.
Back in 1995, I was fresh out of college, living in my first apartment without roommates, and discovering a love for cooking I didn't realize I had. That holiday season, I learned to make English toffee, one of my all-time favorite candies. I'd spread a cup of chopped pecans in a pan, then cook three-quarters of a cup of brown sugar with half a cup of butter until it did that thing that candy does that makes it, well, candy. I'd dump the hot sugar and butter over the pecans, then sprinkle it with half a cup of chopped chocolate, which would melt from the heat of the sugar-butter. An hour later, when everything had cooled and hardened, I'd have a pan filled with sugary, buttery, nutty, chocolatey goodness, which might be one of the best goodnesses known to humanity.
British food gets a bad rap, but they totally make up for it be virtue of inventing a food that it nothing but butter and sugar. That forgives a lot of culinary sins, even the existance of Marmite.
Anyway, I made pounds upon pounds of English toffee that holiday season. I made it for friends, for my office, for myself. I could even make it while slightly drunk on cheap white zinfindel, so adept I was at toffee-making.
For whatever reason, my mom and I made plans to have a big ol' cooking day on December 23rd. Unusual, because most holiday cooking in my family involves my mom standing in the middle of the kitchen, hands on her hips, sighing heavily while she says, "Either do something useful or get the hell out of the way." I was going to do my toffee and rum balls. She was going to make homemade rolls (with the bread machine that's currently sitting on my kitchen table, incubating an oat loaf) and I don't even remember what else. Before we got to work, we paid a visit to my granny.
Now, my granny knows something about making sweet stuff. We all know that she's the jelly-making queen of west-central Missouri. She's also a wiz with peanut brittle, and my parents and I ran for the tins of it that day. As we shoveled it in, not even a bit concerned about ripping our maws to shreads with jagged brittle bits, Granny told us what was, without question, the most disturbing thing I've ever heard her say.
Now, keep in mind my granny grew up poor with a huge family during the Great Depression. She's thrifty, and never throws anything away. Ever. She used to have a dog that I'm pretty sure subsisted entirely on leftover biscuits and gravy. When I was a kid and decided to start a stamp collection, Granny disappeared to her attic, returning with vases filled with several decades-worth of cancelled postage stamps. I had a collection in a day. Kind of takes the fun out of it, really.
"I just couldn't get that brittle to set," she said while we behaved like sugar-covered peanut-starved coyotes. "I left it for several hours and it was still liquid by the time I went to bed. But then I couldn't sleep for thinking about it. So I got up, dug it out of the trash, washed the peanuts and remade it."
We stopped the feeding frenzy.
"We're eating peanuts that have been in the trash?"
"Well, I washed them. They're just fine!"
And for the next hour, my family brutally teased a sweet, candy-making old lady for being so damn cheap that she couldn't sleep over $3-worth of discarded peanuts, which she later fed to her family.
Think about that the next time you try to swipe a handful of Granny's awesome holiday party mix.
A few hours later, my mom and I were back at her house, confident in our cooking abilities, knowing we would never, ever feed anyone discarded and washed peanuts.
Now, Granny is the sweetest person in the world and would wish no harm on anyone. But Granny is also a very devout Pentecostal. While I'm sure she would never ask God to unleash His wrath on anyone, I'm not convinced that, if God witnessed anyone making jabs at one of his finer followers that He wouldn't do a little manipulation. This is the only possible explaination for why I used butter-flavored Crisco in my rum balls and my English toffee. My butter toffee. Repeatedly. The rum balls had the texture of boozy mothballs, and I spent hours making toffee, waiting for it to set, watching it burn to the black tar that fills my soul, throwing it out, and starting over.
In the meantime, my mom had approximately 274 batches of dinner rolls fail to rise.
About six hours into this cooking melee, I left the house for real butter, and so I could weep in the car and while walking the aisles of the grocery store. When I returned home, I looked through the window in the back door before entering the kitchen, and immediately started backing away from what I witnessed.
The cabinet doors under the sink were flung open. The bottom half of my dad's body stuck out of the doors, surrounded by heaps of tools. My mom came running to the door to let me in, and I shook my head in horror.
I'm not going back into that culinary house of terror! You can't make me!
Dad was taking the pipes apart to retrieve a towel, which had been snatched from my mom's hands by the garbage disposal. "Next time it's your hand," it growled.
"My God! The authorities need to get over here and rope this unholy place off with police tape before we all die!" I wailed. And then I proceeded to make batch #492 of my English fucking toffee, because 1) I finally had real butter, 2) I'm tenacious, and 3) I'm an idiot.
Even with the real butter, something went horribly wrong and my golden toffee turned black. I didn't give a shit. I dumped it onto my now-stale pecans, tossed a handful of chocolate chips in their general directions, and took my ass to bed.
The next morning, I walked into the kitchen to find my mom standing at the work island, perfectly-sliced rectangles of toffee on a plate before her smiling face. "My toffee! It's perfect! Christmas miracle!" I squealed.
"Well, not quite. Yours never set up," she said. "I made this batch and it looks pretty good, don't you think? Have some."
I bit into the candy, and it was heaven. Sweet, buttery, tooth-shatteringly perfect.
"I didn't realize you had more pecans," I said. "I thought we only had the half a cup I used last night."
"Well, no, we didn't have more pecans. I, uh ... "
Oh lord, no.
"I rinsed your toffee goo off the pecans and reused them. But they never went into the trash can! I swear!"
I continued eating. "You know, the only part of this that gives me any hope at all is the fact that, at least you washed a slightly more expensive nut. When my turn comes to wash nuts, there's a chance it'll be something classy, like cashews. Or maybe macadamias, if I work really hard and marry well."
It was five years later, and they were really pricey locally-grown black walnuts from a botched batch of cookies that never got baked.
Shut up. They rocked.
Posted by Robin at November 13, 2006 03:38 PM
Comments
If I tell you how much I loved this post, how I was cracking up by the time I got to the line "English fucking toffee", and how I now have a craving for peanut brittle, will you tell me which food magazine you write for? I am CRAZY for food magazines!
Posted by: Elizabeth at November 13, 2006 10:43 PM
I don't believe I've heard this one before. Now I'm laughing like a fool at 5 a.m. (can't sleep!).
Posted by: Blossom's Dad's Ho at November 14, 2006 04:11 AM
It had never occurred to me that nuts were washable. I am filing this tidbit away for later use, right next to Don't Put Acrylic Cutting Boards in the Oven.
Heloise ain't got nothin'. . .
Posted by: Summer at November 14, 2006 09:26 AM
Now I am feelinig melancholy.....reminiscing of my mom's fudge....that never, ever came out and we always had it over ice cream.
Nice story, and I thank you for putting me in the mind to remember....
Kathie
Posted by: Kathie at November 14, 2006 09:43 AM
The most disturbing thing I ever heard My Granny say was somethin' I wouldn't dare type in on somebody else's comments section...
I just love "Boozy Mothballs," if I ever become a stripper, that'll be my stage name. ;)
Posted by: Debbie at November 14, 2006 10:02 AM
I only like toffee in very small doses, but my boyfriend's family is nuts for it. Perhaps I'll try to make some for Thanksgiving. Would you share your recipe?
Posted by: Melissa at November 14, 2006 01:18 PM
I love this post! I'm convinced God didn't want me to move into my current house. I've been making my mother's fudge recipe since I was 10 or so and I've made it perfectly in many different houses for MANY years. I have not been able to make it since we moved into this house.
Posted by: Katya at November 14, 2006 03:32 PM
Utter brilliance! I love this piece!
And now I have to make English Fucking Toffee for the holidays.
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